Champagne has always been rooted in tradition. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier are the holy trinity we all know and love, with a few historic “forgotten grapes” quietly lingering in the background. But now, for the first time in modern Champagne history, two brand-new grape varieties has officially entered the conversation: Voltis and Pink Chardonnay.
And honestly? We have mixed feelings.
Champagne authorities approved Voltis and Chardonnay Rosé (or Pink Chardonnay) under an experimental climate adaptation program designed to help vineyards combat increasing disease pressure and changing weather patterns. These grapes are resistant to mildew and fungal disease, which means growers have significantly less challenges in the vineyard. In a region increasingly impacted by warmer vintages, unpredictable weather, and sustainability concerns, it’s easy to understand why large producers are exploring new options. To me, this directly correlates with the larger houses’ push for greater volume and easier farming practices. In my conversations with small grower-producers, none have expressed any intention of introducing these new varietals into their vineyards and maintain their commitment to tradition of quality.
As the growers feel, so do I as you know we’re deeply passionate about preserving what makes Champagne… Champagne. Part of the magic of this region comes from its limitations. Champagne is not supposed to be easy. The marginal climate, the chalk soils, the delicate balance between ripeness and acidity... these challenges are exactly what create the tension, freshness, and unmistakable identity we love in great Champagne. So when we hear about hybrid grapes being introduced, even experimentally, I can’t help but feel a little cautious.
To be clear, Voltis and Rosé Chardonnay are currently allowed only in very limited quantities and under strict regulations. Producers can plant only small amounts, and the grape can represent only a minor percentage of a final blend. But symbolically, it represents something much bigger: Champagne acknowledging that climate change may permanently alter the future of the region.
Interestingly, this isn’t the first time Champagne has looked beyond the “big three.” Long before Chardonnay and Pinot Noir dominated the region, Champagne vineyards included varieties like Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, and Fromenteau. Many of these nearly disappeared after phylloxera devastated vineyards in the late 1800s, but some growers have recently revived them for their acidity, uniqueness, and historical significance.
Reviving historic Champagne grapes feels very different from introducing newly engineered hybrids. One reconnects Champagne to its roots; the other feels more like a response to necessity and consumerism.
But as lovers of terroir-driven Champagne, we also believe that innovation should never come at the expense of identity.
The good news? Champagne's boutique growers (like the ones curated by We Drink Bubbles) remain committed to the traditional varietals. Your favorite grower champagnes are still champagne.
But the conversation is changing, and it’s one worth paying attention to.
